Shinobu Namae’s entry into the culinary world was not “fancy”. It was only a matter of survival – “I needed to make cash,” he said with fun.
“The easiest strategy to discover a job for a student back then was washing dishes. That is how I began my profession.”
It wasn’t long before Namae was “thrown” into peeling onions and garlic during his free time at the restaurant. Even though it wasn’t glamorous work, he liked it.
“There are few professions that give an instantaneous response to your work. If you happen to serve delicious food, you possibly can see it on the customers’ faces,” he told CNBC Make It.
“It’s a really, very beautiful job to be in the kitchen and see completely happy people.”
It’s the ability to empathize with the needs of others and make them feel that you simply care about them. That is an important part of being a chef in a restaurant.
Shinobu First name
Chef at L’Effervescence
Thus began a romance that saw Namae work his way up the kitchen ladder in Japan and England for seven years before opening L’Effervescence in Tokyo 13 years ago.
The restaurant, which emphasizes Japanese products using modern European cooking techniques, has since been awarded three Michelin stars – three years in a row.
Recently, Namae received the “Icon” award for his contribution to the world of food at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023. His restaurant ranked forty fourth on the list.
The 50-year-old chef tells CNBC Make It about his culinary philosophy and what motivates him to continue to learn.
From politics to food
Before Namae fell in love with cooking, he studied political science at Keio University in Tokyo – a field he said might be in comparison with the world of food.
“I’ve at all times been very occupied with humanity and what makes us human… Politics is about understanding the relationships between people, communities and nations,” he said.
The interior of L’Effervescence. The restaurant claims its electricity sources are sustainable, for instance using firewood harvested from forest thinning for cooking.
Working in the food industry helped him deepen this understanding. Food cultures may vary, but a universal desire to attach with others and experience the joy of food is universal, he said.
“We are able to rejoice with our ability … to eat or serve sophisticated food in an awesome atmosphere,” Namae said.
“But it surely is the ability to feel for others and make them feel that you simply care about them. It’s an important part of being a restaurant chef.”
That is why he believes that the “basic ability” of people – not only chefs – is to look after something that may take an individual to the heights.
Most individuals have limited minds because they give attention to techniques and details [of dishes]. These are beautiful things, but we also should take care of our surroundings.
Shinobu First name
Chef, L’Effervescence
“That is the start line for my work as a chef: if we do not care about the ingredients, we do not cook well. If we do not take care of our employees, we haven’t got a powerful team and we will likely be in trouble,” Namae said.
“If we do not care about the customer – when the chef only cooks what she or he likes … the business won’t achieve success.”
Ethics of gastronomy
This “fundamental ability” is what drives Namae’s give attention to ethical and sustainable gastronomy – which also “starts with care”, he said.
Although he works in a closed kitchen in Nishiazabu, Tokyo, Namae said his mind travels “much wider” to major crises around the world and considers them impact on our food resources.
“Most individuals have limited minds because they give attention to techniques and details [of dishes]. These are beautiful things, but we also must take care of our surroundings,” Namae said.
That is why all of the ingredients utilized in L’Effervescence – right right down to the soy sauce – come from 100 local farmers, growers and hunters.
Namae’s sustainable ethos can also be evident in its signature dish “Fixed Point” – a complete turnip with no wasted part, slow-cooked for 4 hours, with brioche, ham and parsley.
L’Effervescence’s signature dish “Fixed Point” features whole turnips simmered for 4 hours, with brioche, ham and parsley.
Nathalie Cantacuzino
The chef’s passion for reducing the climate impact of gourmet cuisine has led him to interact with WWF Japan in initiatives to curb illegal fishing.
He recently graduated from the University of Tokyo with a master’s degree in agricultural sciences.
But even in spite of everything he has completed, Namae says the work of understanding humanity through food never ends.
“If I could, I’d wish to proceed working like the legendary Jiro-san, who, despite being 97 years old, remains to be behind the counter making sushi,” he said, referring to world-famous chef Jiro Ono, who appeared in the documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.”
“Never stop exploring – that is the hard part of being a chef, but in addition a really, very exciting one.”
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